







Deep-fried lasagna.
The first thing you need to know about Vicé (pronounced Vichae) is they do deep-fried lasagna, 5 deep-fried lasagna bites served as a starter portion. It’s every bit as good as it sounds. This is not revolutionary stuff, lasagna is amazing, deep fried things are usually amazing, therefore… obviously… why not go for double amazing?
However, the deep-fried lasagna is just the beginning. The menu at Vicé starts with some simple delicious antipasti/frittura and ranges over several further pages of pizza options. Pizza here is classic Neapolitan style. Super light soft pillowy and chewy dough with plenty of toppings, expertly cooked by quality pizza chefs. If you picked up Vicé and dropped it in the middle of Napoli it wouldn’t look out of place, and I would expect it to quickly be given the seal of approval by the locals.
Uemé burst onto the Lecce pizza scene in mid 2022 and as you walk in you feel like wow this place is buzz as fuck. They've really gone for it. It's like an exhibition space for contemporary twenties lighting (two thousand and twenties that is). There's spacious wooden tables, greenery, a fancy bar, different levels of seating, smooth wooden banquets with USB ports, Gen Z music, the entire playbook of the modern venue has been delivered here and its just impossible to ignore.
The reason it's impossible to ignore is that sat inside Uemé, sipping a cocktail and basking in the perfect level of illumination, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in the meatpacking district, or Chelsea, or the lower east side of New York. But you're not. We’re in Lecce. This is a Lecce pizzeria. And Lecce pizzerias are not like this. Or at least they weren't.
Ciro is a no-frills pizza joint: old school, generous, everything served on disposable (still! …woke sigh), and cheap. The pizza is by no means world beating but it's very good, especially for the price you pay. The guys are really friendly and it's got a lovely set of light wood high tables, that sit on the corner of the piazza and are the main eating area. A not-so-little pizza here and a not-so-little bottle of peroni red is a great way to pass an hour or two.
When I walked in La Gigante for the first time I was like ‘wow this is a proper pizzeria’. It feels very newly refurbished, it’s been tiled to mid height in a deep red and then left largely neutral except for some lovely lights and a set of tables and chairs. Absolutely no bullshit whatsoever. It’s so nice to be inside there, top marks to whoever was in charge of the refit.
And it’s backed up by some very serious pizza. This is top end pizza but it’s NOT napoletana, which for me is both brave and very refreshing (…as the whole pizza zeitgiest has been moving towards napoletana for some time now). So if it’s not napoletana what is it? I guess it’s actually what most people, especially from the older generations know as ‘thin and crispy’ Italian pizza, which is much more traditional in most parts of Italy. When you order a pizza here the base is really ‘croccante’ (crispy), they’re definitely using farina semola either on the pizza making table or in the dough (or both) which is more classic for the deep south of Italy. If you hold a slice up it won’t flop over but will stay firm. They have a spectacular array of pizzas from humble options to more fancy-pants top-end choices packed with the very best local ingredients from Salento and Puglia.
A lot has already been said/written about 400 Gradi online… and with its status as Lecce’s only super-buzz, world-class, neapolitan-pizza-scene pizzeria I won’t lie; it’d be very entertaining to have a go at bursting the bubble. Somehow it feels like the Juve or the Man United or the Real Madrid of Lecce, and lets face it everyone hates those kind of super clubs.
But the thing about 400 Gradi is that unlike Juve/Man United/Real Madrid - it’s actually consistently good. In fact, it’s consistenly excellent.
Pizzeria Rosetta is about as an authentic a pizzeria as you can get in Italy. The pizza is cheap, and the quality (for the price you pay) is superb. It’s no wonder that it’s usually absolutely rammed with locals.
There’s no table service here, you have to go inside and order at the cassa (till). The woman that serves you is simultaneously super lovely/smiley and absolutely terrifying, all at the same time. She runs the phone lines and the queue by herself, and knows exactly when everybody has ordered and when. She’s incredible. She processes more orders than I’ve ever seen anyone ever process in my life, by hand (and I worked in restaurants for a long time). If only they could fire all the useless men in Rome and put her in charge of the country, they could probably half the Italian public debt whilst making everything run on time.
La Succursale (literally ‘the branch’) is the Lecce outpost of Barrueco in Santa Caterina. This younger sibling is not quite as picture perfect a location as the original for a pizza, but still without a doubt one on of my favourite places (possibly my favourite place) to go in Lecce.
The pizza here isn’t the cheapest in town but it’s well made with good quality ingredients. I’m struggling to write why the pizza is so good because it’s quite hard to explain succinctly without decending into pizza dough obsession.
You can find La Citta Di Pulcinella at the top end of Via di Leuca, almost as far as Castromediano but still only a 15/20 minute walk from Porta San Biagio.
It's a rock solid Neapolitan pizzeria complete with fake interior Napoli balconies (with clothes hanging from them), check table clothes, and Moretti on tap.
…I also want to assert that this is a fantastic pizzeria, that I visit often and I am not slagging it off at all. Other than my semantics about dough (which I realise for many are boring and tiresome) they are obviously as Italian as it gets. The ingredients are excellent and are always fresh (the pizzeria is always busy and they never make pizzas too far in advance). In fact I’m not sure you’ll find a fresher cooked slice anywhere else in Lecce. I’ve often dropped in for a ‘quick’ slice and then walked off, slice in hand, only to find myself turning back around to go and get another one. And then another one. In fact a good tip (especially if all the tables are full) is to eat on the steps of the church next door. My advice: get a slice and a beer and settle in, bum-on-steps, for a couple of rounds of pizza… until you’re definitely full. I can tell you from experience that this is much more relaxing and efficient than constantly walking up and down Via Giuseppe Libertini, as lovely as it is, telling yourself you’re not going to eat anymore pizza, when clearly, you are.
You can also order a whole pizza which they’ll cook for you to order (which is massive and requires about 4 people to get through).
Pizza & Co. is already a well known pizzeria in Lecce especially amongst the tourist community, and with good reason. They know their way around flavour extremely well and deliver slice after slice after slice.
I’ve never visited India so I can’t speak to its real authenticity, but every plate I’ve had in Just Desi packs that classic spiced and fragrant flavour punch signature to indian food, whilst also being in someway lighter than I’m accustomed too. I’m used to eating really heavy curry, but after eating a takeway from Just Desi you don’t feel like you need to enter a deep, 6 month, digestion-hibernation period. It just doesn’t destroy you like that.
Samosas are big, super crispy and well spiced. Chicken Curry is similar to what gets labelled ‘Korma’ in the UK, but with a touch more spice and less creaminess. When you go in they have the currys on a dispense counter, so I tend to just point at things and have a little chat and decide that way. We usually get another chicken curry with a rich and spicy vegetable sauce, but I’ve no idea what its called I’m afraid. Dahl is wonderful, although a tad thin for me, but its still so good I order it every time.
Takeaway portions are massive, eat-in portions are pretty small, I believe the prices are the same. I leave you to work out where the value for money is there.
At the time of writing Juras is probably the best burger I’ve eaten in Lecce. It’s because their meat is the closest thing I’ve had here to that kind of juicy soft chuck style patty you get in the UK/US. And the medium was almost medium. The buns are a bit bappy, with the maccy d’s style sesame finish, but basically everything else is either good or great.
On it’s day Il Pizzicotto is easily as good as any of Rome’s world renowned Pizza al Taglio joints (their potato and truffle cream & mortadella and stracciatella are notably good) and on other days simply has a good selection of tasty bites. It sometimes suffers from thinking it’s a little bit better than it really is. However, all of the staff are super helpful and speak several languages and will talk you through all the toppings. Sometimes they’re not forthright about which was the pizza that most recently came out of the oven, or if it was cooked that day, so you have to use your eyes to judge.
On it’s day Il Pizzicotto is easily as good as any of Rome’s world renowned Pizza al Taglio joints (their potato and truffle cream & mortadella and stracciatella are notably good) and on other days simply has a good selection of tasty bites. It sometimes suffers from thinking it’s a little bit better than it really is. However, all of the staff are super helpful and speak several languages and will talk you through all the toppings. Sometimes they’re not forthright about which was the pizza that most recently came out of the oven, or if it was cooked that day, so you have to use your eyes to judge.
Mezzo Quinto sits in the middle of Via Degli Ammirati, which is a great little road to know about as you'll also find Il Pizzicotto, Bar Moro, and ‘00’ here.
If you want a fast bite of hearty local food, you literally couldn't find a better local spot. The core menu: polpette (meatballs), pezzi di cavallo (horsemeat stew), and parmigiana (aubergine) are the classics that generations of salentini have survived on. You can get a panino for 5€ or a plate for around 7.50€, there won't be any frilly bits, just rustic flavour and plenty of it.
If you can't be bothered messing around with restaurants, getting a table, waiting to be served, waiting in general, in Mezzo Quinto you have a quality, local, authentic, and cheap option- what more could you want.
Undoubtedly the best Piadina in Lecce. But really? This place?
Let me walk you through it. On the corner of Piazza Sant'oronzo, opposite the Roman amphitheater; there's an unassuming takeaway joint, with a large, attention seeking, vegan kebab sign written on the front. It has the air of a place that dishes out lowest common denominator tourist kebabs, probably for an extortionate price.
But if you know, you know. And most of the locals do know. Even in the hey day of the 2021 coronavirus lockdown, the steps of Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia were still littered with eager lunch time punters, chomping their way through some of Lecce's finest Piadinas washed down with a beer.
Martinucci is well known in Salento and across Puglia as a chain of good quality pasticcerias with large sites in all the main tourist hotspots, and even an outpost in Rome.
Their new site in Lecce has revitalised the former McDonald’s, smack bang in the middle of Piazza Sant’oronzo and it’s backed up by their reliable pasticcerie, which are always outstanding across all their sites. It’s hard to argue the selection of pasticciotti aren’t some of the best, if not the best in all of Lecce.
An excellent range of gelato is on offer here too (as if the 3 other massive gelaterias within a stone’s throw weren’t ample selection enough). It’s also a good place to pick up a top-quality sandwich (panino) or sit down for a little aperitivo/snack.
Delia is about a 10-minute walk from Piazza Mazzini, the most fashionable part of Lecce, and it lives up to the area’s reputation with bang-on-trend pastel pink/teal interior, mid-century style chairs & lighting and decent-sized bright wood tables. So good a place is this to come with a laptop I am actually bashing this in on my keyboard now. Also, so hot a place is this to come for a coffee that I’ve already bumped into several people I know. Not that I’m the man about town who knows everyone (far from it) but you know what I mean.
They have a simple selection of elegant pasticceria, it’s not the place to come for an enormous cream-filled coda (crispy pastry tails), it’s more of a mini torta with meringue/perfectly glazed fruit/chocolate-ganache twirls type of place, as well as the usual breakfast selection, including Lecce’s famous pasticciotti, all of which is well made.
Settimo Cielo is a pretty small and old school gelateria and there’s something about it that fondly reminds me of a sea side ice cream parlour of my childhood…not any place in particular but that kind of vibe. I love it. Ten out of ten for vibe. It just feels extremely unpretentious in a city full of quite ostentatious gelato joints (that often are perhaps a little too focused on looking good rather than tasting good).
And the gelato here tastes banging. In fact on my visit I was tasting Settimo Cielo head to head against another gelateria, and Settimo Cielo was noticeably better on both the flavours, which is quite rare (in the gelato tasting game, it can end up all tasting the same).
Cioccolati Gourmet has a BIG WALL OF CHOCOLATE. It’s massive. They’ve obviously been to see a Willy Wonka movie, and made some notes. Creamy liquid chocolate oozing down an entire wall. If you’re stood anywhere near the building you can’t possibly miss it. It’s like a statement of intent. And if you’re in the chocolate business, which evidently they are; it’s a pretty good statement to make.
Baldo is nestled on the corner of a side street just down from Santa Croce. It's from this little road you can cut up to Porta Napoli and out to the north of the city. It's a humble little gelateria, simple and clean inside, without too much fanfare and bullshit.
Probably the worst kept secret in Lecce is that Baldo does the best gelato in town. And they do. Trust me, I've eaten a lot of it. And a lot of others.
Pasticceria Citiso feels like the kind of place that Shoreditch graphic designers come to visit on research trips (and then recreate -badly- for buzz London restaurant companies looking for the edge in the world of restaurant fashion). Everything from the signage, to the fonts on the awnings and sugar packets is so on point that it really is an extremely entertaining place to sit and have a drink/something sweet. It has a creamy marble/mid century concrete look, with mirrors everywhere, tables laid up with actual table clothes (and glass tops); windows lined with rows of classic cakes, and Romanesque columns each side of the door as you walk in. Even if I’m sure essential refurbs will come along in the future, I hope that from a design perspective nothing about this place ever changes.
You’ll find Pasticceria de Leo about three quarters of the way up Via di Leuca (heading towards Castromediano from Porta San Biagio). It’s a humble place with a classic Italian bar interior that looks like it hasn’t been touched in well over 50 years. There’s a kinda brutalist concorse infront of it on which they’ve created a lovely little seating area. It really is a surprising relaxing spot for a morning coffee.
Natale has some really fancy pants chocolates in it’s window and some extremely elegant pastries. Peering through the glass, you see lovely tall ceilings matched with an early twentieth century vibe (a tad deco), which help to bring life to a building that would otherwise probably be quite insignificant in that area.
And life they do bring, and lots of it. Natale is usually rammed, and with good reason. They do by far the most tasteful range of sweets/chocolates/cakes and ice cream in the old city of Lecce, and they are all very delicious too.
On the wide paved path that joins the smaller Piazza Castromediano Sigismondo onto the grand Piazza Sant’oronzo, you’ll find the smart outdoor seating area of Tentazioni. It’s a fantastic spot to stop for a quick coffee/drink or ice cream, and watch the comings and goings of the locals & tourists through the heart of the old city.
Pinti is not strictly Leccese, its actually a Neapolitan Pasticceria, and has a dangerous selection of Neapolitan cakes and sweets which, if you wanna max your daily calorie limit in about 15 minutes, will blow your mind.
The interior is a simple bar/counter (cassa left / sweets & cakes middle / coffee bar right), tastefully littered with neo-antique Italian furniture (Pinti is not actually old, I think it opened in 2017). The team are generally helpful and speak plenty of languages between them.
Outside, Pinti comes into its own as it spills out onto the large paved space in front of Porta San Biagio. Here I have whiled away many many MANY mornings with a coffee & pasticciotto, reading my book or relaxing in the sun.
Caffè Alvino sits in the middle of Piazza Sant'oronzo, right opposite the Roman Amphitheatre, in the heart of the old city of Lecce. You'd of thought it hard for any Cafe to feel historic amongst the Roman ruins and the baroque glory of Lecce. But Alvino has been there so long (I've no idea how old it is but I wouldn't be surprised if it dates back to BC) and is such a fixture of Lecce that, nothing can touch this place in terms of Leccese old school vibes.